Diamond Sourcing 101

One of the most common questions we get from prospective clients is how we source our diamonds. Our answer, as with many things, is that it depends on you, your goals, and what you want to achieve from your custom piece. Here’s a quick primer on our available sourcing options for diamonds and how it might work for you in a future project:

1) Natural Conventional Diamonds

A natural conventional diamond is one which is mined from the earth with no geographic origin denoted in its supply chain. The vast majority of diamonds traded in the market are of this umbrella origin and there is no way to trace the country or region from which the diamond was mined. The largest diamond producers in the world include Russia, Botswana, Canada, Angola, and the Democratic Republic of Congo and typically, the country of origin is not traced from the “rough” material pulled from the mine through to finishing and distribution unless the diamond is Canadian or of a very select quality. This means that you, as a consumer, typically will not know whether your natural diamond is from Botswana or Russia or anywhere else in the world.

Good to know: The US currently has sanctions against ALROSA, Russia’s government-backed diamond mining agency, owing to the ongoing conflict in Ukraine; however, Russia continue to legally export its rough diamonds to other countries. Russian diamonds account for over a third of natural diamond manufacturing output: in short, a huge number of diamonds are exported from Russia on a daily basis. Under current law, once a product is “materially transformed” in another country, it can then be imported into the US even if its geographical source is Russia. And yes, cutting diamond rough into a finished gem-quality diamond counts as “material transformation:” meaning your diamond could very well have been mined in Russia. Still, US sanctions in general have resulted in a tightening of the diamond market (it’s more complicated to do business with Russia for everyone) and therefore a rise in cost, regardless of where the diamond is from. So, if knowing the origin of the diamond is important to you or if simply avoiding Russian diamonds is important to you, then you should probably avoid natural conventional diamonds.

Natural Conventional Diamonds

Pros: Limitless cut, color, and quality options

Cons: Opaque sourcing, especially expensive at the moment due to the impact of US and other foreign sanctions against Russia

2) Canadian Natural Diamonds

Unlike other supply chains, Canadian natural diamonds have a much tighter end-to-end model and can typically be traced to the particular mine from which they came owing to the stricter regulatory scheme. Canadian natural diamonds are a great option if you are interested in a natural diamond but want to consider a more conscientious option with regard to labor standards and local community investment. Canadian mines hire a majority of their workers from indigenous populations and serve as a vital natural economic resource for some of the country’s northern-most provinces. While there is still an environmental impact to consider, these mines provide economic output and well-paying jobs to Canadians and you may simply feel better knowing the source of your diamond.

Canadian Natural Diamonds

Pros: Transparent sourcing, Canadian economic investment, comparably priced to other natural diamonds

Cons: A bit limited on size, cuts, and quality available. Sometimes Canadian diamonds look a bit grey.

3) Recycled Natural Diamonds

Recycled diamonds are, hands down, the very best option for a client considering the most ethically-sourced diamond for their design. Our resource for recycled diamonds is a Virginia-based company that specializes in refining and recycling gold, platinum, and other precious materials. Diamonds reach this vendor through a vast network of verified jewelers and sellers. Our vendor then certifies each diamond traded as “Recycled” through a vetted process, diamonds are graded and certified according to GIA standards, and then the diamonds are redistributed into the market - to you! Purchasing a recycled diamonds means you avoid the ecological impact of diamond mining, you avoid the labor and human rights considerations that inevitably comes hand-in-hand with exporting from certain large diamond producing countries, and you avoid the political consideration that current circumstances bring about (ahem: Russian diamonds). You’re also making use of a diamond’s most remarkable quality: its incredible durability. Diamonds can be used, reused, repurposed, and reused again… and again… and again. Why not take advantage of this and buy a recycled diamond?

Recycled Natural Diamonds

Pros: Insignificant carbon/environmental impact; transparent sourcing; pricing is comparable to conventional natural diamonds

Cons: Limited cuts and grading available

4) Lab Created Diamonds

As a consumer, you also have non-traditional options available to you in the form of lab created diamonds. Lab created diamonds are materially identical to natural diamonds in their durability, composition*, and look. This is a very recent standard, though. Diamonds have been created in laboratories since the 1950’s, though they typically were not of gem quality and were nearly exclusively used for industrial purposes. Starting in the 90’s, lab created diamonds started to emerge in certain “fine jewelry” markets, but they typically looked a bit off - the colors tended towards grey and, frankly, the gems weren’t amazing. Within the last few years, however, the lab diamond market has become sophisticated enough to supply true, gem quality diamonds for use in fine jewelry. These newer products are visually indistinguishable from their natural counterpoints, they maintain the durability and refractive index that makes diamond material so coveted, and they cost significantly less than natural diamonds.

Lab created diamonds are often marketed as being intrinsically greener than natural diamonds, but the truth - of course - lies in the details. Most lab created diamonds are manufactured in China, though Russia and India also produce a sizable number. Manufacturing a lab created diamond takes a huge amount of energy, resulting in significant carbon output depending on the energy source used to power the facility. Furthermore, if you are paying attention to human rights issues or labor standards, then lab created diamonds will not offer much in this regard as China, Russia, and India lead manufacturing rates by a large extent.

Fortunately, we have options. We have vendors who supply certified USA-made lab created diamonds. These diamonds are manufactured in facilities that are certified carbon-neutral and you can purchase the diamond knowing you are supporting local economic growth here in the US. If you are considering a lab created diamond for any reason in addition to than simply a cost consideration, then USA made lab diamonds are your best option by far.

Lab Created Diamonds

Pros: Significantly less expensive than natural diamonds; indistinguishable from natural diamonds; available in wide variety of cuts and grades; an be a greener/more ethical option if USA-made

Cons: Somewhat limited in certain cuts; unable at the moment to pursue custom-cutting options in lab created diamonds; must be careful about country of origin if you are weighing ethical considerations

*The compositional difference between a lab created diamond comes down to three aspects: magnetism, nitrogen and crystalline growth pattern:

• Certain lab created diamonds are magnetic where as no natural diamonds exhibit this quality, so it is possible to run an industrial-grade magnet (not the type you find on your refrigerator) over a collection of diamonds and pull some lab created diamonds out.

• Trace amounts of nitrogen is found in the vast majority of natural diamonds, but it is never found in lab created diamonds. Certain diamond testers can test for the presence of nitrogen in the material which can indicate (though not determine conclusively) whether the material is natural or synthetic.

• Otherwise, the best way to distinguish between a natural or lab created diamond is to have the specimen tested using a GIA diamond iD100 diamond screener which examines the gemstone’s deep UV radiation (we have one) or studied in a professional laboratory. There, scientists can examine the material’s crystalline growth pattern and determine the source “thumbprint”. This is not a test that can be done in a jeweler’s studio.