Understanding Period & Artistic Terminology in Jewelry Design
When we work with clients on their jewelry designs, we often use period and artistic terminology that can be useful in articulating different aesthetic references. Since most of our clients aren’t fresh out of Art History 101, a refresher on these different periods is sometimes useful to frame the discussion. Understanding how these art eras express the time and place of their historical context can be useful in selecting which elements you might want to see in your own design, and how they might play with other references. Often, architectural and jewelry trends move in conjunction with one another, as both can reflect advancements in technologies put to new use as well as a general “mood” of aesthetic preference. Jewelry serves as a small but impactful medium for referential self-expression: designs are never created in a vacuum, but instead always reflect some influence beyond oneself. Indeed, we find this to be one of the most beautiful aspects of jewelry design today: we benefit from a wealth of historical references from which to draw inspiration, leading to innovative iterations of these styles in our own workshop.
Antique Edwardian
Antique Edwardian is a style that harkens back to the Edwardian era (1901-1910). It is characterized by its elegance and lightness, moving away from the heavy, dark Victorian style that predated the movement. Edwardian designs often feature delicate and intricate details, with an emphasis on craftsmanship and quality materials. This style often incorporates floral motifs, pastel colors, and delicate fabrics, creating a sense of elegance and refinement.
The style demonstrates a period infatuation with exaggerated, highly detailed design elements that evoked a sense of historic drama, luxury, and refinement. Arches, domed rooftop pavilions, colonnades, and other layered elements utilized French and Italian aesthetics, turning the gaze away from the more staid, English Victorian influences and back towards an old-European charm. Buildings were constructed using lighter stones as the introduction of gas and electric lighting removed concerns of soot buildup inside, which had previously dictated much of the darker, heavier Victorian architecural elements that predated this period. In jewelry design, this lighter aesthetic could be expressed using white diamonds as the diamond industry expanded its reach and diamond cuts progressed beyond the more primitive cuts available in earlier decades.
Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau is an international style of art that was most popular between 1890 and 1910. It is characterized by its use of long, sinuous, organic lines and a deep respect for nature. Art Nouveau pieces often incorporate natural elements like flowers, animals, and curved lines, creating a harmonious blend of form and function. This style was a deliberate attempt to create a new, modern style, free of the imitative historicism that dominated much of 19th-century art and design.
Art Nouveau jewelry contrasted particularly with the more referential elements seen in Edwardian design. New shapes were introduced, often with a bit of asymmetry in the mix, creating novel looks that presented a striking contrast to the symmetrical, arched lines more typically seen in fine jewelry. Artisans were more interested in created unique pieces that evoked the imperfect balance of the natural world rather than in utilizing and displaying expensive materials. Thus, many of-the-period Art Nouveau pieces were not set with diamonds but instead utilized semi-precious gems such as opals and garnet. It was a purposeful turn away from the ongoing industrialization that otherwise defined the period and reflects a romantic, creative vision.
Art Deco
Art Deco is a style that radiates audacity and sophistication. Originating in the 1920s and 1930s, this movement is known for its bold geometric forms and lavish ornamentation. It encapsulates the optimism and rapid industrialization of the Roaring Twenties. Art Deco pieces often feature stylized and symmetrical motifs, often inspired by machinery and the modern age. From towering skyscrapers to intricate jewelry, the influence of the Art Deco aesthetic can be seen in various aspects of design.
Jewelry makers experienced a boom during this period, accessing new materials (such as platinum and baguette diamonds) afforded by new technologies that generated novel shapes and patterns in design. Baguette diamonds especially play a key role in executing the clean, glassy geometric lines of Art Deco design, with the straight edges and stepped-cut styling in various sizes providing the necessary scaffolding for these strong designs. With an abundance of wealth available, designers were commissioned to create stunning designs that stretched the boundaries of jewelry fabrication. To this day, it is one of the most commonly referenced design periods, both due to its inherent elegance as well as the abundance of design inspiration pulled from the period.
Artistic Bohème
The Artistic Boheme style is known for its free-spirited and unconventional approach to design. It reflects an eclectic mix of elements from different cultures, time periods, and styles. This style exudes a sense of casual sophistication, often featuring a mix of colorful patterns, textures, and materials. Artistic Boheme is all about self-expression and individuality, creating a uniquely personal aesthetic.
The style is grounded in influences pulled from Southeast Asian architecture and evokes a certain 1970’s aesthetic of a gauzy, colorful display. Often, it uses alternative gemstones such as salt and pepper diamonds, green sapphires, and rustic cuts that are more unique and interesting than brilliantly faceted. It represents a turn away from the sleek, perfected shapes of more minimalist designs that rely on ideal symmetry for intrigue, and they often feel more romantic and textural in their tone.
Practical Minimalism
Practical Minimalism is an art style that emphasizes simplicity and functionality. It strips down design to its most essential elements, removing any unnecessary details or decorations. This approach results in clean, streamlined designs that are easy to understand and use. Practical Minimalism often uses a monochrome or limited color palette and geometric forms, creating a calm and focused environment.
The 1990’s migration towards streamlined, minimalistic design represented a general turn away from the large, bold, pattern-heavy aesthetic of the 1970’s and 1980’s. Today’s interpretations often feature large, geometric center stones that maintain the focus of the design, with the setting serving like the classic slip dress that defined 90’s chic. With the advent of lab diamonds available in nearly any shape and size, clients are taking advantage of the strong geometric statements created by these shapes at much more affordable prices than was ever possible. Still, the style requires a perfectionism in both gemstone and setting, with so few details leaving ample room to notice slight asymmetric imbalances. The result is a clean, classic style that is both impactful and understated.
Modern Tradition
Modern Tradition represents a fusion of classical design principles and modern aesthetics. It emphasizes clean lines, minimalist forms, and functionality, while still respecting and incorporating traditional elements. The beauty of this style lies in its balance and harmony, creating styles that are both comfortable and visually pleasing. Modern Tradition designs often use a neutral color palette, complemented by natural materials and textures.
In jewelry, the trend leans towards antique cuts set in modern settings, rounded shapes, and plenty of curve. Often, the styles introduce non-traditional colors into otherwise classic designs or add a touch of weight or curve to more masculine styles (such as the updated signet ring). Texture can also play a key role in balancing a sleek design with a more grounded aesthetic. It represents a bit of a counterpart to the Practical Minimalism of today’s period, with a purposeful turn towards softer lines and layered design as well as a reverence for the unique properties and craftsmanship displayed in these thoughtful designs.
In the end, your design should reflect your own ideals and aesthetic preferences. As a client-driven design house, we consider our job first and foremost to be helping our clients understand and express their own preferences, and working with a share language is key to this goal. Of course, photos are extremely helpful in any design consultation, so do your research and save pictures that mean something to you. We’ll help you create something stunning!
