What a Difference Metal Choice Makes!

When it comes to color choice for your setting, some people have a precise idea of what they like and some people really vary in their decision. Personally, I hold a solid preference for yellow gold in most pieces for myself. That being said, I like the look of platinum for other people and love the seamless look it brings. I also think that in most antique-inspired rings, platinum really reigns supreme. During consultations I explain to clients that a yellow gold setting will draw the eye towards the whole ring so that you notice the design as much as you do the diamond. I do not think that yellow gold setting distract from the diamond but they definitely add a layer of aesthetic “data” in a way that a platinum or white gold setting does not. A platinum or white gold setting results in a bigger, more sparkly effect when paired with diamonds since your eye is going to combine the white effect of the reflective metal with the white effect of the diamond for a single, very sparkly look: your eye sees all diamond at first glance, with the setting coming into focus after the fact. But, this isn’t necessarily better: personally, I love seeing the shape and form of a ring which is why my preference lies in yellow gold.

Another consideration to keep in mind when picking your metal tone is the quality of the diamond you are setting in the piece. Typically, I guide clients towards a colorless (DEF) diamond when setting a piece in platinum, where as yellow gold allows a little more flexibility in color. This is because the white tone of the setting is going to contrast with any warm tones in the diamond and therefore enhance those yellow hues more. Again, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing: if you like the look of a warmer diamond then you shouldn’t let this bother you at all. The classic recommendation is to pursue a whiter appearance, however; so my advice follows that logic. In yellow gold, because your eye is picking up on warmer hues in the ring anyway, the warmth of the diamond isn’t as striking. It tends to play nicely with the yellow in the setting and again, since your eye works in relative hues, the diamond will look whiter than its grade because its point of comparison - the setting - is so much more yellow.

The same considerations ring true for rose gold as they do for yellow gold. As a warmer hue, rose gold is going to play into the same elements of contrast, tone, and framing that yellow gold does.

We now have two versions of our Kathryn ring in stock which gave us an opportunity to compare the two metal choices side-by-side. As you’ll notice, there is a profound difference in the overall effect of the ring. If you’re really on the fence about the right color tone for you, we can always develop your design in both options so that you can see renderings of each and make a more informed decision. My final advice I always give people who aren’t sure is to trust your gut and don’t worry about what’s trendy right now. It’s ok to appreciate the beauty of a style but know it isn’t quite for you. Your jewelry should reflect your own preferences - not your jeweler’s, not your mother’s, not your best friend’s, and not instagram’s. Trust your gut and you’ll always make the right decision.

The Kathryn rings shown here are each set with similarly sized ~1ct oval diamonds. The 18k yellow gold Kathryn is set with a G color VVS2 diamond, and the platinum Kathryn is set with an F color, VVS1 diamond.

Previous
Previous

Creating a Mood Board for Design Inspiration

Next
Next

Designing For Your Lifestyle